It is a great demand in aesthetics: erase those dark circles that give the face an ever-tired look. Injections, lipofilling, peeling or laser… to achieve this, aesthetics moves forward cautiously, as the area is so delicate.
Under the eyes, at the level of the lower eyelid, a very complex blood and lymphatic network passes. And this network passes under the thinnest skin of the entire human body. Because of its fragility, this area marks quickly, and requests for correction are frequent among people in their thirties.
“Dark circles are a frequent concern because they mark and tire the eyes from the age of 30. Several problems are exposed: coloring but also the deepening of the dark circle,” says Dr. Nadine Pomarède, dermatologist.
Why do we have dark circles?
As for the reasons for seeing the eyes dark circles, they are often hereditary and linked to the natural aging process.
Dr. Franck Desasy, a cosmetic physician, explains: “In this area, three age-related phenomena are observed that lead to a marked look: loss of fat, thinning of the skin and skin sagging. »
- The loss of fat as well as the thinning of the skin makes it transparent and allows the venous network to be seen, hence the appearance of bluish circles, which are difficult to correct.
- And sagging skin creates puffiness, whether or not associated with dark circles, whose shadow creates a “dark circle effect” even when the skin is not pigmented.
Treating puffiness, a delicate surgery
“It can first be a skin slackening with excess fat that creates a shadow on the lower eyelid and causes a dark circle. This dark circle may be due solely to the shadow of the pouch, or it may also be pigmented,” says Dr. Olivier Galatoire, oculoplasticist.
If the person wants to get rid of this pocket, the answer is surgical. Muriel Bessis, president of theAssociation of Successes and Failures of Aesthetic Surgery (Arches), warns: “The area under the eye is very delicate and failed procedures exist, with important consequencesafterwards. Especially for this area, you should confide in a very experienced doctor who is used to working on this area. »
It can indeed happen that the skin is over-tensioned, resulting in the so-called “round eye” phenomenon.
Price: for surgery on the bags under the eyes, count between €2,200 and €2,500.
Filling the dark circles with injections
The underside of the eye can also be marked by a real hollow with a volume deficit that can be corrected with an injection of hyaluronic acid.
The true hollow is the easiest case to treat, even if the procedure remains delicate,” comments Dr. Desasy. It can befilled with a weakly cross-linked hyaluronic acid. The idea is to correct with caution, by pricking deeply, in contact with the bone, but very sparingly, even if it means touching up. The result lasts from 12 to 18 months. »
The sequels are simple, the look can be a little bruised for two or three days.
But this simple hollow is not the most frequent case, and often, doctors have to treat a situation in between, i.e. a slight pocket that creates a hollow. The borderline is then tenuous between two different aesthetic strategies: either remove the pocket, or inject hyaluronic acid to blur the difference in height.
In which case can there be a failure? A wrong indication and, for example, an injection that would not be necessary… and would accentuate the pouch instead of blurring it.
Price: about 450 and 500 € per syringe.
Another way to approach this hollow ring is the lipofilling method. This method consists of injecting the person’s own fat to restore volume and fill a hollow. Here again, the recommendation is to choose the right specialist, who must have perfect control over the procedure. In fact, contrary to what happens with hyaluronic acid, the fat is not resorbable and, once the injection is performed, the result is long-lasting.
Price: from 1 700 €.
Against brown or purplish rings, a peel
Brown colored dark circles due to hyperpigmentation are very difficult to treat, and there is a great demand, especially for ethnic skin. “The coloring of the dark circles is, in most cases, hereditary in origin and becomes more pronounced with age. The colored ring, brown or even bluish, corresponds to an accumulation of melanin, associated with a stasis of the microcirculation. Masterly preparations in pharmacies attenuate this pigmentation,” comments Dr. Pomarède. But we are still poor enough to treat colored rings,” Dr. Galatoire recalls.
For brown cir cles, the best response is the same as the one used to fade spots: dermatological peels. But we shouldn’t expect a miracle, even if the result is visible. Depigmenting peels have an action on the stimulation of the skin: these peels are TCA dosed at 15%. Here again, be careful in this area: it is better to increase the frequency of peels rather than increasing the power.
Price: from 250 to 400 € approximately.
The purple colored rings are due to a thinning of the skin that shows the microvessels and the color of the periorbital muscle. No other solution than to redensify the skin. Among the techniques proposed: mesotherapy (injections of multivitamin products and very fluid hyaluronic acid) stimulates the dermis. The results are described as moderately satisfactory. Fractional radiofrequency also aims to stimulate the dermis.
“These techniques have, in my experience, relative effectiveness, but when combined, the results can be correct,” explains Dr. Desasy. Mesotherapy and radiofrequency work well together, with sessions spaced a week apart, with three or four attack sessions followed by a maintenance session once a month.
Price: €700 for a pack of 5 mesotherapy sessions, €900 for a split radiofrequency session.
The laser, for an overall result
In order to treat skin quality, fine lines and associated dark circles, the dermatologist or cosmetic doctor may also use fractional ablative lasers such as Erbium and CO2.
These are excellent indications for tightening the skin and stimulating collagen production,” says Dr. Pomarède. Fractional lasers have the advantage of reducing the healing time(three to five days), but only part of the skin is treated. Ittakes two to three sessions, six weeks apart, to obtain a quality result in terms of smoothing and stimulation of collagen production. »
Price: about 350 €.